Split, Croatia

Our Tour in Split…. We arrived in Split, Croatia at the end of our cruise to a heat wave which was spreading through Europe. The tour around the city whilst informative was in oppressive conditions as there was little breeze flowing through the narrow streets. The guided tour focussed on the Diocletian Palace section of the city and the guide provided the history back to Roman times.

Following the tour, we left the group and wandered the ‘Old Town’ to find our apartment which turned out to be just around the corner. Part of our apartment is connected to the old walls of the Diocletian Palace very close to the most famous historical, cultural attractions and landmarks. We then met up with our cruise friends for a farewell drink followed by dinner at a restaurant in the ‘Old Town’. What is notable is that drinks and food in Split are cheaper than Dubrovnik. The Split locals are also more friendly and helpful.

The Wrong Accommodation…. After breakfast next morning, we said farewell to our cruise friends and took a golf cart to our Split apartment to drop off the bags. The only problem was the driver took us to the wrong place. The receptionist at the Diocletian Wine Hotel then helped us transfer to our apartment about 3 minutes away and provided a guided tour along the way. He was so concerned and helpful by taking both our suitcases that a tip was appropriate even though he didn’t agree.

We Select Our Local Bar…. Our studio apartment is in the centre of the ‘Old Town’, a great location. We are surrounded by bars, restaurants and a night club. We immediately selected our local bar just around the corner and went for a drink. A beer is Kuna 17 (A$4.00), a bargain. In Dubrovnik, our most expensive beer was Kuna 48 (A$11.50) and yes, the same size 330 ml bottle. Restaurant prices also seem cheaper than Dubrovnik.

Supercars Everywhere…. The Onelife Car Rally was in town when we arrived and as we couldn’t get into our apartment till 1:00 PM we watched the cars depart Split heading for Montenegro. The rally was from Poland to Greece and there were millions of dollars of supercars on display with the most expensive being a Bugatti Veyron, a cool US$1.7 million, but plenty of Ferrari’s, Lamborghini’s, McLarens, Porsches, Audi’s, Bentley’s, BMW’s and Mercedes. For some reason the drivers love revving their engines and creating unbelievable noise on the Riva Esplanade. After checking into our apartment, we were exhausted and spent the rest of the afternoon cooling down and relaxing before heading out for dinner at a lovely Italian restaurant.

Exploring the Town…. Next morning after a sleep-in we ventured out to wander the town of Split. First to the outdoor markets, then into the Diocletian Palace, the Cathedral of St Duje, the Crypt, the impressive Vestibul with views over Split outside the walls and views within parts of the old wall where locals still live. This is a beautiful city and a contrast to Dubrovnik.

Dubrovnik is pristine in condition and almost too perfect, but beautiful in its own right. Split is a more historical city, but to us seems to be more inviting with its ruins dating back to 4th century as well as its restored sections. To us it has character, with the history of this old town at every turn you take.

The Heat Wave Continues…. That night, after it had cooled down, we wandered the streets of Split. At every turn you were surprised by the uniqueness of this city. Newly restored sections alongside Roman ruins, narrow streets running in all directions, restaurants everywhere, classy shops and boutiques. Everyone in shops and restaurants is friendly and happy whereas in Dubrovnik they seemed a little jaded from tourists.

We selected an outdoor restaurant, had a nice dinner and on the way back came to the Peristil Square in the middle of the Dioclecian Palace where live entertainment was taking place. People dancing and singing and the local restaurant serving drinks, all at 11:00 PM at night.

Our Final Day…. A sleep-in this morning after another late night. Out to walk more of the ‘Old Town’ but oh boy, is it hot, 35oC at 11:00 AM. We walked the Riva Esplanade that overlooks Split Harbour then walked to the fish market.

Completely different to the Tokyo Fish Market. This market seems to have the local fisherman just selling the fish they caught the day before.
Some stalls only had a few small fish whilst others had a reasonable stock of fish for sale. From there into a small local craft market and then into the new section of Split with the regular range of Main Street stores like Zara.

Croatia Cruise – Dubrovnik to Split

Our last few hours in Dubrovnik were spent using our Dubrovnik 24hr Card visiting the Mamad Art Gallery, and the Natural History Museum. We collected our cases from the apartment and walked to the pickup point for our Croatia Cruise. Checked into our cabin on the MS Markan. A brand new, Deluxe cruise boat launched in September 2018. We then joined our cruise group for a tour of the city with a tour guide who was very informative about the history of this beautiful city. Most interesting.

Luxury Afloat…. It was then back to the boat for the welcome dinner, an opportunity to meet the Captain, crew and other passengers followed by a welcome dinner. Next morning, we departed and cruised past Dubrovnik ‘Old Town’ which gave a different perspective of this beautiful city.

After 3 hours of cruising we stopped in a small bay at Otok Jakljan for a swim for an hour. Crystal clear water and not cold.

We then headed to Slano to pick up a bus that took us to Ston for a short city tour, learn about sea salt production and to walk the 14th century old city wall. The wall is nearly 6 km long and was built to protect the salt production from invaders because back in medieval times salt was considered white gold. Our short walk of the wall was only 800 meters but also a steep climb with 800 steps. All this in 34oC temperatures. What a contrast to England.

Oyster, Mussel and Wine Tasting…. Back on the bus to Mali Ston where we boarded a boat that took us to a remote peninsula for Oysters, Mussels, Wine and Grappa tasting. Fresh oysters 15 minutes out of the Adriatic Sea, mussels cooked in wine and garlic and very nice local wine. After an hour everyone was very happy but once back on the bus many soon fell asleep. I wonder why.

That night was the Captains Dinner with a Croatian duo providing the music. A formal event by Croatian standards; long pants, no flip flops and the men were asked to shave. This is as formal as it gets on this cruise.

How Embarrassing…. Next morning, we were on the way at 8:00 AM, having breakfast, when all of a sudden, the boat turns around and goes back to Slano. A passenger was off walking and missed the boat. A very sheepish American guest boarded the boat on our return to port. 2 ½ hours of cruising on water that looks like a mirror before a stop for a swim in the warm and inviting Adriatic Sea. Lunch on board whilst heading towards our next destination, Mljet National Park.

More Exercise…. A nice lunch was enjoyed before walking 2 km to a large inland lake where we boarded a small boat that took us to a Benedictine Monastery on a tiny island, St Mary’s Island, in the middle of the lake. It was a 30 minute stop here then back to the mainland to rent bikes with friends from the boat and proceeded to ride around the lake, a distance of 12 km. Back to our starting point, into the bathers for a swim in the lake with a very rocky bottom. That is when we realised, we needed the aqua shoes we purchased in the UK. An exhausting uphill walk took us back to the boat.

A Very Nice Dinner…. That night out for dinner at one of the local restaurants serving fresh seafood, with a group of friends from Perth and Zimbabwe. A fun night but I think we were all ready for bed when we had finished the meal with wine and beer to wash it all down.

A Refreshing Ale and the local wine Grk…. On Saturday, a later departure than usual at 9:00 AM to the small township of Lombarda where we had the opportunity to walk the town then spend a pleasant hour having a drink in a beach bar with a group from the cruise boat.

And On To Korcula…. Back on board for lunch whilst cruising to our next overnight stop of Korcula. A walking tour with a local guide was interesting and fun as she had a wicked sense of humour.

Following the tour, we wandered the town and found a bar in the tower which led to climbing many steps to see a very steep ladder in front of us leading to the very top. We all climbed the ladder through a small manhole of rock to discover they don’t sell beer. We called it “a pub with no beer”!! How disappointing, so down the ladder again before settling at a nice bar on the esplanade for drinks and pizza with the group from the ship. We are overdue for an AFD but this will have to wait till Helsinki.

Now We are Cruising…. Next morning, we departed at 8:00 AM whilst having breakfast for a 5 hour cruise to our next destination, the island of Vis. It was nice to have some free time whilst cruising as the last 4 days had been hectic and energetic. You need to be fit if you wish to participate in all the activities. The 5 hour trip was mostly in open ocean with a reasonable breeze so the ship was heading directly into the swell which was a problem for some passengers. When we were having lunch our guide advised the waves were 1.5 meters and they can get up to 5 meters as the wind increases. Wow!


A Swim and Wine Tasting…. We arrived in the village of Vis and walked to the local pebbly beach for a swim. Thank goodness for the aqua shoes which we remembered to take with us. Very relaxing. We returned to the boat and then went on a wine tasting excursion. An uphill walk of about 1.5 km to a local winery. Enjoyed three wines with the shiraz style wine winning hands down

And Yes, Another Dinner…. Out for dinner that night, a group of 9 of us, that have bonded well. The dinner was in a local restaurant recommended by a friend of Carole’s. VIP treatment and a free entrée. If the trip was any longer than 8 days, I think we would all have ended up as alcoholics. We are committed to at least two AFD’s in Split, or maybe Helsinki or maybe when we get home.

The Famous Blue Cave…. After an overnight stop in Vis we departed early for the island of Bisevo and its famous Blue Cave. Boats and people everywhere as this tourist attraction is really popular. It was a 2 hour wait, before we departed on a small boat with 12 people on board to the Blue Cave. The cave was spectacular as once you entered the cave the sun reflected off the white sand on the cave floor and lit up the dark cave with a rich blue colour. After 5 minutes in the cave we were dropped off at our cruise boat.

Hvar, The Party Island…. We then headed to Hvar, the party island, and arrived mid afternoon and were escorted on a guided tour of this beautiful town. We then wandered the town taking in the abundance of clothes and gift shops before settling into a bar in a shady spot for a nice drink before heading to a restaurant for dinner. A great night was had by 11 of us from Australia, New Zealand and Zinbabwe. We were anchored right on the esplanade with restaurants and night clubs galore, so we watched the passing crowd from our balcony before heading to bed after an exhausting day.

We Head for Split, Our Final Destination…. For our final day on the boat we departed Hvar to the island of Brac for a swim from the famous beach, Zlatni Rat, near the town of Bol. A stony beach but crystal clear water greeted us. Thank goodness for our aqua shoes again, well worth the money.

After an hour swimming, back on the boat for lunch and off to Split for our final night on the boat. A quick walk around Split, to a bar for a quick drink and then out for our final dinner with our friends, Carole & Chris from Perth and Karen, Dino and Nicola from Zimbabwe. A fabulous but exhausting 8 days on the brand new cruise boat, MS Markan.