Kyoto And On To Tokyo

Back In Familiar Territory ….  A 2 1/4 hour Shinkansen trip saw us back in Kyoto for a return visit.  My fourth time and Liz’s third.  After a nice lunch in a restuarant near our apartment we headed for the Teramachi Dori Shopping Street in downtown Kyoto.   It is always interesting as you see locals and tourists seeking out bargains or looking for somewhere to eat.  We knew it was a public holiday in Japan but what we didn’t expect were the crowds.  It seemed everyone in Japan headed for Kyoto on a public holiday.  

Teramachi Shopping Street
Teramachi Shopping Street

There were people everywhere then out of the blue came a protest march which held up traffic and the crowds. We found out it was against  Nuclear Arms.   After a couple of hours of wandering downtown Kyoto we decided we’d had enough and headed back to the santuary of our modern but small apartment.

Protest march in Kyoto
Protest march against nuclear arms in Kyoto – Don’t think they like North Korea

We Jump On A Bus ….   The next morning after a bit of research we decided to take on the Kyoto bus system to explore the city.   Our first stop was the Ginkakuji Temple, sometimes called the Silver Pavillion.   The main feature of this temple is the magnificent gardens.. It was just stunning with the autumn colouring and the beautifully maintained gardens.   We then walked the “Path of Philosophy’, a 1.8 km path running along side a canal lined by cherry trees, gardens and restaurants.

Ginkakuji Temple,
Ginkakuji Temple and gardens – A magnificent display of autumn colours
Kiyomizudera Temple and Gardens
Ginkakuji Temple and gardens – A magnificent display of autumn colours
Path Of Philosophy
Path Of Philosophy – A 2 km walk along a canal

Back On The Bus ….     Our next stop was the Kiyomizudera Temple, but trying to avoid the tourists we came through the Nishi-Otani Mausoleum and cemetry.  An amazing uphill walk through the cemetary to finally reach the Temple and the crowds.  The route back takes you down a quaint little street with many gift shops and restaurants.

Otani Mausoleum and cemetery
Otani Mausoleum and cemetery
Kiyomizudera Temple
Kiyomizudera Temple

Our Next Stop ….   A must do in Kyoto is a visit to the Issen Yoshoku Japanese Restaurant as it serves only one dish, Okonomiyaki,  a delicious pancake style dish with all sorts of ingredients.  We then spent a bit more time walking some of the unique parts of Kyoto before jumping on another bus back to our apartment.  We really do have the confusing Kyoto bus system mastered.

Preparing the Okonomiyaki
Preparing the Okonomiyaki
Enjoying Okonomiyaki
Enjoying Delicious Okonomiyaki at the famous Issen Yoshoku Japanese Restaurant

We Return To Tokyo ….  Arrived in Tokyo, jumped on the subway and were soon checked into our apartment in Roppongi. Spent the rest of the day getting some supplies from the local supermarket then dressed for dinner as we met up with friends from Huntingdale Golf Club in Shinagawa, a couple of subway rides away. Great night with plenty of laughs.

Dinner with Huntingdale GC friends
Dinner with Huntingdale GC friends – Not sure why the young lady next to Rob wanted to be in the photo.

The Old Haunts ….  On our first full day we returned to our old stomping grounds, first to Asakusa, then to Ueno, great for shopping, then to Akihabara,  electric town.  Returned home for dinner then headed to the bright lights of Ginza. It was nice to revisit familiar territory and we felt really at home.

Asakusa
Asakusa Tourist Shopping Street leading to the Senso-Ji Buddist Temple
Ginza
The Ginza at night

A Day In Yokohama ….   Next day onto the subway in Tokyo rush hour. An experience everyone should have once in their life.  We arrived in Yokohama 45 minutes later and within 15 minutes were on a ferry heading for Yamashita Park. The ferry ride was a real eye opener.  Yokohama is a beautiful modern city with wide streets, parkland along much of the waterfront and lot’s of things for tourists to do.  We walked through two parks, then onto Bluff 99 where there are many European style houses, then down to Motomachi Shopping Street.  This street is Toorak Village on steroids.  Beautiful shops, boutiques, and restaurants.  We took a rest stop in the Renoir Coffee House, a Windsor Hotel style establishment. All very classy.

Motomachi Shopping Street
Motomachi Shopping Street – Very posh shopping area

On To Chinatown ….  Next stop was Yokohama Chinatown, the biggest in Japan.  It was a hive of activity and very classy.  From there we walked to the Aka-Renga Soko  (Red Brick Warehouse) previously shipping warehouses and now a tourist attraction with shops and restaurants.  It was then on to the Cosmoworld Amusement Park to ride the giant ferris wheel for an aerial view of Yokohama. 

Yokohama Chinatown
Yokohama Chinatown – The biggest Chinatown in Japan
Yokohama Harbour
Yokohama Harbour from the top of the ferris wheel

A Unique Experience ….  By this time we had hunger pains so we jumped on another train and headed for the Ramen Noodle Museum.  This turned out to be a real highlight of the day.  The museum is set in a mid 50’s Japan townscape with a number of tiny restaurants serving various types of Ramen dishes from all over Japan. After a beer in the courtyard area we settled for one restaurant, ordered from the all Japanese menu and was served a delicious ramen noodle dish.  What an experience.

Ramen Museum
Ramen Museum in Shin-Yokohama. A unique dining experience
Ramen Museum 1950's townscape
Ramen Museum 1950’s townscape

Another Day Trip, This Time Nikko ….  Once again we jumped on the Shinkansen for 50 minutes and then a local train for 45 minutes to visit Nikko.   This small town has a number of World Heritage sites which includes temples, shrines & mausoleum.  The biggest of these was the Toshogu Shrine and we spent around 1 1/2 hours walking this amazing shrine. Then onto the Futarasan Shine and back on the bus to the Shinkyo traditional Japanese bridge and a walk through the town back to the station.  An interesting day.

Toshogu Shrine
A small section of the amazing Toshogu Shrine
Shinkyo Bridge
The historic Shinkyo Bridge in Nikko

Our Final Days ….   Our final days in Tokyo were spent visiting Shibuya, a main shopping district, across to Odaiba Island to visit the Toyota Megaweb and the Tricky Art Museum. 

Trick Art Museum
Liz fighting a reptile in the Trick Art Museum
Now who's the biggest
Now who’s the biggest
Toyota Megaweb
A car of the future at Toyota Megaweb

On Saturday we visited the Koishikawa Korakuen Japanese Gardens followed by a visit to Ikebukuro Shopping District.   What an eye opener.  As big as Shibuya and equally as crowded. 

Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens
Koishikawa Korakuen Gardens
Ikebukoru Shopping District
Ikebukoru Shopping District

Sayonara Japan ….   So tomorrow we sadly depart Japan.  This is an amazing country.  Friendly people, world class technology, a transport system the envy of the world and massive building complexes that interlink with train stations, department stores and shopping complexes.  At the same time it proudly displays its heritage and culture.

Christmas lights at Roppongi Hills near our apartment
Christmas lights at Roppongi Hills near our apartment

Off To Kyoto – The Old Capital

Shinkansen – Bullet Train

A Great Way To Travel ….. It was with a tinge of sadness that we left our cosy apartment in East Ginza. We said our goodbyes to Scott who had three more days in Tokyo and headed for Tokyo Station and the Shinkansen (bullet train) bound for Kyoto. Just over 2 hours later and a very relaxing train ride we arrived in Kyoto, and after a short taxi ride we were in our new apartment in Kyoto. In the afternoon we walked around our local area, found the supermarket and took on the adventure of buying some supplies all in Japanese for our 5 day stay in Kyoto. That evening we took a short walk to the famous Gion area. Gion is Kyoto’s most famous geisha district. It is filled with shops, restaurants and teahouses where geishas entertain. Gion has a high concentration of traditional wooden merchant house and due to the fact that property taxes were formerly based upon street frontage, the houses were built with narrow facades only five to six meters wide, but extend up to twenty meters in from the street.

Gion – Hanami-koji St

On Your Bike …..  On our first full day in Kyoto we decided the best way to get around was by bike.   There are numerous bike hire companies in Kyoto so we went to one relatively close to our apartment and hired two electric bikes for the day.   Bike hire is very cheap and for the day for the two bikes only cost Yen 3000 which is about $36.00.  Very good value.  Our first stop on our bike trip was to  Kodaiji Temple.  This turned out to be an amazing experience.  Instead of just a temple we found a complete area full of shops and restaurants all aimed at tourists.   No need for morning tea, every second shop was offering samples of their food and drinks they were selling or just offering free coffee and biscuits to get you to stop at their store.  There were hundreds of school children there on day excursions and they were so happy and friendly with many of them saying hello to you in English.  The Temple though turned out to be a bit of a dissappointment as it was completely covered for renovation.

Kodaiji Temple Entaran

Our Next Stops …..  Our next stop was the Heian Jingu Shrine about a 4 km bike ride up one of the busiest streets in Kyoto.  A walk around the Shrine for 30 minutes off to our next stop the Imperial Palace.   For those that are interested, a Temple always has a Budda and a Shrine doesn’t.   Usually Shrines are used for weddings and Temples are used for burials.   The Imperial Palace is only open to the public twice per year and we were lucky enough to be in Kyoto for the Autumn opening. So along with 50,000 Japanese and about 4 Europeans we walk through this most impressive array of buildings and gardens.   One thing we give the Japanese credit for is how to handle large volumes of people and whilst there was a lot of people at the Palace, you felt like you were just having a casual stroll around the Palace.

A Small Section Of The Imperial Palace – Kyoto

From the Imperial Palace we rode our bikes to the Nijo Castle.  For a Yen 500 ($6.00) you were able to walk through the castle and all the gardens. Nijo Castle was built in 1603 as the residence of the first shogun of the Edo Period (1603-1867). His grandson Iemitsu completed the castle’s palace buildings 23 years later.

Nijo Castle Entrance – Kyoto
Japanese Gardens In Noji Castle – Kyoto

Back on our bikes to ride home as it was getting late and it was dark around 5.15pm, we came across a roof covered street (Sanjo St) which runs for a kilometer and contained shops and restaurants.  Although it is pedestrian only, you are allowed to ride push bikes so we ventured down to explore.  We came across a vendor selling traditional Japanese crepes using sesame seeds, honey and some unrecognisable ingredients and not having any lunch we stopped to give them a try.  They were delicious.

Crepes For Afternoon Tea in Sanjo Arcade – Kyoto
Cycling Kyoto – Liz in Sanjo Arcade

So our first full day in Kyoto turned out to be a great day especially since we were able to enter the Imperial Palace.

Venturing Further Afield …..  Day 2 and we decided to go to Nara, a 45 minute train journey from Kyoto.  Our morning in Nara was spent visiting the Kofukuji Temple, going to the Government Offices which has a viewing deck on the top floor of the building for a 360 degree view over Nara, then on to the Yoshiki-en Traditional Japanese Gardens.  From the gardens we walked to the Todaiji Temple which is the world’s largest wooden structure and built by the Emperor Shomu in the 8th century.   This is an amazing building and contains a giant Budda (15 meters high) and two very impressive guardian deities.

Todaiji Temple – Nara (The Largest Wooden Structure In The World)

Many of the main attractions in Nara are situated in or around a 660 hectares Nara Park which contains an abundance of wild deer.  It is a novelty when you see your first couple of deer as they are very tame and come up to you for food.   It was a novelty to see school children lined up with a deer in the middle of them for a photo shoot.  The deer are so tame they just stand there and take it all in.

Wild Deer In Nara Park

From the Temple we walked through the park back to town and by this time it was 3:00 PM so we searched out a restaurant serving traditional Japanese cuisine and had a delicious 4 course lunch for the two of us for just Yen 1600 (about $20.00).   What we have noticed in Japan is that if you go to restaurants used by the locals, the prices are very reasonable and excellent quality.   If you go to the restaurants targeted at tourists you pay very high prices.  The same the world over.

Ichizoku Restaurant Where We Had Lunch – Nara

By the time we finished lunch it was time to head back to Kyoto and our cosy apartment.

A Day In The Metropolis …..   We had not explored the downtown area so on our third day, Saturday, we spent the day wandering the main shopping area of Kyoto.   For a city of only 1. 5 million population this downtown area is amazing.  The variety and quality of the shops, department stores and restaurants is just amazing.   To put it in perspective the shopping district of Kyoto would be larger and have a much wider range of stores than Melbourne CBD. The Teramachi Shopping Arcade, pictured below, is one of a few arcades in the CBD and is about a kilometer long.

Teramachi Shopping Arcade – Kyoto

Another arcade, Nishiki Food Market, is not quite as long but contains only food stores of every possible variety.  Nearly all the stores have tastings of their product and is is a real experience to walk along tasting the wide variety of foods on offer, and not knowing what you are sampling.

Market Stalls in Nishiki Food Market – Kyoto

Dinner In Gion …..   Saturday evening we walked back to the Gion area for dinner and went to a restaurant called Issen Yoshoku which is famous in Kyoto.  We walked in and were promptly seated and given a rather large red menu with Japanese writing on the front.  To our surprise when we opened it there was only one item on the menu.   Yes one item. It consisted of a pancake style base made of tempura batter on which was piled spring onion, egg, dried shrimp, grilled fish paste, dried bonito (fish), ginger, Konjak jelly (plant) and flour. When cooked on a hot plate it is folded in half like a calzone pizza and served with a sweet soy sauce.  It turned out to be delicious and we understood why there were queues outside the waiting for takeaway and the restaurant was full of customers.

Issen-Yoshoku Being Prepared
Our Delicious Meal – Issen Yoshoku

Having no desert on the menu we then found a bar on the 5th floor of a building that specialised in only crepes and drinks and had the most delicious crepes you could imagine whilst sitting next to two elderly geishas and being entertained by a very competent barman.

Rob With A New Friend

Our Final Day In Kyoto …..    Sunday was our final day in this beautiful city and we decided to see a couple of tourist sites on the outskirts of Kyoto.  The first, a short train ride away was the Fushimi-inari taisha Shrine.  This Shrine was in immaculate condition and very impressive.  Obviously Sunday is an important ceremonial day in Japan because there were many Japanese children dressed in Kimonos and boys in traditional dress. The Shrine is famous for its thousand torii gates which straddle a network of trails behind the main building.  The trail leads into the forest of Mount Inari and runs for 4 km to the top of the mountain.

The Fushimi-inari taisha Shrine

 Our train took us back to Kyoto Station in order to catch a bus to our next destination, the Kinkakuji Temple.  Kyoto Station is an architectural masterpiece and I have never seen a train station so imposing.  There are escalators that run up 10 floors in a row to the top of the building where you can see down into the main station ground floor.  There are three departments stores in the station and the total floor area of shops is probably double the size of Chadstone Shopping Center.

Kyoto Station – An Architectural Masterpiece

 Not Just Another Temple …..  This time we left the comfort of the trains for the Kyoto bus system to venture north to the Kinkakuji Temple or as it is more commonly known, The Golden Pavilion.   Well we certainly left the best till last.   This temple is covered in gold leaf and as we arrived mid afternoon it glistened in the setting sun.  This is just a magnificent building set on the edge of a lake and surrounded by beautiful Japanese gardens.

Kinkakuji Temple – The Golden Pavilio

And so our 5 days in Kyoto comes to an end.   An amazing contrast to Tokyo.  You see Kyoto as old Japan and Tokyo as new Japan.

Japan – Here We Come

Tokyo;  Then Off To Kyoto

Mt Fuji
Mt Fuji From The Bullet Train

Hi everyone,  Just to let you know we leave tomorrow for Japan.  Only a short overseas trip this year of 17 days.  We are back home on November 8, 2012.

The Ginza By Night

We have been very lucky to find a nice new apartment in Tokyo right on the edge of the Ginza, one of the main entertainment and shopping precincts in Tokyo.  Once we are in and settled we will send a report on what it is like to live in the middle of Tokyo.

Kyoto

We spend a week in Tokyo then travel to Kyoto by the Shinkansen (Bullet Train),a trip that take about 2 1/4 hours.  We spend 5 days in Kyoto.  Once again we have been fortunate to find an apartment in the Gion area of Kyoto which hopefully should be close to everything and ideal for sightseeing.

Time permitting we will try and send a few reports on our adventures and the highlights of our trip.