Our drive from Windermere to Matlock of 140 miles (224 Km) was in constant rain but as we arrived the rain subsided and within half an hour there were patches of sun. English weather? We stocked up with supplies at the local supermarket then went to our cottage just out of downtown Matlock. Our cottage is a converted barn and is appropriately named Field Barn Cottage. A good pick as it is on the edge of town with views over the countryside, the local playing fields and a lane leading into the woods. Very quiet at night.
The lounge at Field Barn Cottage
A Hidden Gem…. Next day we woke to sunshine so up early and headed off to Lumsdale Falls just out of Matlock. A local walking his dog up the lane told us about this place. This area is a hidden gem and took us by surprise. The valley is home to a series of magnificent waterfalls, ponds and the ancient ruins of three water mills. You find one of the largest collections of water powered industrial mills in England. The area is a scheduled ancient archaeological site and much work continues to preserve this beautiful piece of English heritage.
A small section of Lumsdale Falls
After the strenuous 4 km walk, much of it up steps and steep rises to view the falls we decided we deserved a treat, so headed for the Tansley Tavern for a beer. Sitting outside in the sun was very pleasant and a good finish to a nice morning. We returned to our cottage for lunch before taking a drive to familiarise ourselves with the region.
Lumsdale Falls and a section of the historic water mill
We Go to New Heights…. We woke to a nice morning and took off early as rain was predicted in the afternoon. We went to Matlock Railway Station, parked the car and jumped on the train to travel one stop (4 minutes) to Matlock Bath to visit the “Heights of Abraham”. Taking a cable car from street level, you travel up the mountain to reach the attraction which consists of spectacular underground lead caverns, exhibitions, play areas, picnic spots, cafes and restaurants all set in a park environment. The complex has stunning views over the surrounding countryside particularly from the Victoria Prospect Tower built in 1844 to celebrate Queen Victoria’s reign.
Cable Car to “The Heights of Abraham”
Into The Caves…. Our first destination was the Masson Cavern which was a lead mine in the 17th century. What was unusual on this mine tour is we walked up 150 steps inside the mine and still ended up 120 feet underground. The tour guide gave an informative overview of mining in the 17th century along with an appropriate sprinkling of English humour. After a nice coffee in the restaurant we went to the second mine, the Rutland Cavern. This mine was much easier walking as it was level with only a few steps, and we exited on the same level.
Deep within the Masson Cavern, an old lead mine
The only problem was the entry of this mine was about 200 feet below the main visitor centre and we had to hike our way back up a winding path for lunch, to visit the other attractions and to descend back down on the cable car. Very good exercise for the day.
View over Matlock from the top of the Victoria Prospect Tower. 54 steps to the top
We took the train back to Matlock and returned to our car then drove back to Matlock Bath to visit the Masson Mills Shopping Village. This is an old textile mill that has been converted to a museum and shopping village with several discount stores. Our impression of the fashion in some of the country areas of England is that fashion is focused on the “matured aged person” who would like twinsets and cardigans!! We then returned to our comfortable cottage for happy hour.
Local train back to Matlock
We Go to the Derby…. A wet day was forecast so we headed back to the Matlock Station and caught the train to the city of Derby, a journey of 35 minutes. The rain had stopped when we arrived, and we walked to the Derby Intu Shopping Centre on the edge of the city. A large shopping centre with all the High St shops, a large theatre complex and restaurants. After spending some time exploring the shops different from Australia, we walked the town, albeit in light rain.
Derby Cathedral
We walked to the beautiful Derby Cathedral and then walked down Sadler Gate, a pedestrian precinct with a combination of fashion shops, classy bars and popular eateries. It was then back to Derby Station for our train journey back to Matlock. This train journey takes you through the Derwent Valley alongside the Derwent River and is a pleasant journey in a very comfortable train. A nice day despite the windy wet weather.
One of the unique pubs in Sadler Gate
Off to Bakewell
Bakewell is a village about 10 km from Matlock and a popular tourist destination. Situated on the banks of the River Wye it is the biggest town in the Peak District National Park. It’s mellow stone buildings, medieval five-arched stone bridge and quaint courtyards are very attractive. You can’t visit the town without trying the Bakewell tart or Bakewell pudding which is famous. We headed for Thornton’s Coffee Shop, ordered coffee, a Bakewell Tart and a Chocolate Brownie. The coffee was excellent, the Brownie delicious but mixed reviews of the Bakewell Tart because of the strong almond essence taste which is not Liz’s’ favourite.
Wye River at Bakewell with 5 Arch Bridge 
Pedestrian Bridge across river. Thousands of locks 
Unique Shopping Arcade
After walking the town and checking out a few of the shops we then headed for our next destination, the Thornbridge Brewery just out of Bakewell. This small brewery offers a guided tour and samplings of their many beers. The tour leader was very passionate and knowledgeable about the brewing process and how the brewery had grown over a 15 year period. We tasted a traditional ale, an Indian Pale Ale and a Lager and both agreed the Lager served nice and cold was our favourite. As part of our tour, as well as the tasting, we were able to bring home three bottles of the lager. A great tour and extremely good value.
Thornbridge Brewery Barrel Room for tastings 
Brewery Canning and Bottling lines
We had been in the Peak District of 5 days and had not spent any time in Matlock where we were staying and so parked the car and wandered the streets of the town. It is a beautiful town with a large very well kept park (Hall Leys Park) right in the middle of town and the usual selection of shops all housed in older style buildings. We then met up with our good friends Bob & Lindsay Ballard who had just flown in from Australia.
Matlock Town Centre
We had a nice lunch with them at the Grouse & Claret Pub in Rowsley then returned to our cottage for a quiet afternoon. The first in 5 weeks. Later in the day Bob & Lindsay joined us in our cottage for an early dinner before retiring after a long day.
Hall Leys Park in Matlock
We Catch the Tram…. A later start on Friday and as the rain had eased, we headed for the Crich Tram Museum. We were able to join the first guided tour of the day conducted by Kkkken. It turned out to be a highlight as Ken was a laugh a minute. He was about 4 ½ ft tall and was wearing a suit at least 4 sizes too large for him but his sense of humour and his enthusiasm was fantastic. There are a vast range of vintage trams in the museum and all had been beautifully restored and were in running condition.
Our favourite guide, Ken
Following the guided tour we went to the historic pub in the museum for morning tea and then took a short ride on a vintage double decker tram and then walked back through a bushland trail which was part of museum. The museum, rated 4½ stars on Tripadvisor is certainly well justified.
Historic trams at the Crich Tram Museum
From the museum we headed to Lumsdale Falls as Bob & Lindsay were keen to see the falls and the mill ruins. Then back to Matlock for a quick walk around and to visit a huge antique shop before heading back to our cottage for a late afternoon rest. We then headed back into Matlock for a drink at a local pub, The Remarkable Hare and then went for dinner at “Thailand 1”, an excellent Thai restaurant in the heart of Matlock for a birthday celebration dinner for Lindsay & Liz. A lovely end to a nice couple of days.
Dinner at Thailand 1, Thai restuarant 
The birthday girls, Liz & Lindsay
Our 5 ½ weeks in England has now come to an end. Tomorrow we head to Croatia spending time in Dubrovnik, Split and a Croatia cruise.