Italy, Our Final Weeks - August13 to September 2, 2006

Lot's Of Preparation in Montone, This Could Be A Big Event....  Our week before the commencement of the festival was spent watching the village prepare themselves for the big event in Montone.  Three taverns were set up and decorated with medieval themes, cantinas (cellars) opened for the selling of local wines and grandstands erected to seat the hundreds of people who would be visiting for the festival.  There were people building stage props and rehearsals taking place.  The village was abuzz with activity and by the end of the week hundreds of colourful flags and banners were hanging in all the streets and from the buildings. 

Let The Fun Begin..... The Montone festival called the "Donazione Della Santa Spina" takes place annually in August each year to celebrates the "Holy Thorn of Jesus' Crown" which was brought to the village as a present by Carlo Fortebraccio.  The three wards (Quarters) Porta del Borgo, Porta del Monte and Porta del Verziere challenge each other re enacting scenes of medieval life and tournaments in order to win the Palio (Prize) and to crown the Castellana (Lady of the Castle).

It's All Happening....  The week commenced with an individual archery competition to select each Quarters best archers, and an official opening of the taverns to the sound of medieval drums and trumpets in each of the quarters taverns.    The whole village is transported back in time to the Middle Ages with the three taverns serving medieval foods and wine at very reasonable prices for the entire week and the waiters and waitresses dressed in medieval costume added to the atmosphere.  The following night each Quarter put on a play, each lasting approximately 20 – 30 minutes, which re-enacted medieval life in a humorous setting.  Seats for this event go on sale only one hour before the event and because of its popularity it was important to be there early to get a seat.  The plays, in full medieval costume, are so professional and well rehearsed that it is an absolute credit to the performers who all come from the community of Montone, a village of only 1500 people. 

Serious Competition....  The best archers are chosen for each Quarter and they compete in the team archery competition.  Different targets are placed within the walls for the competition, and there is much interest shown with hundreds of people following the archers.  At the end of this event there is the presentation of the Golden Arrow awarded to the best archer and the banner for the winning Quarter.  This is a colourful parade of trumpeters, drummers, the teams of archers and the princesses from each quarter arriving into the piazza below us.  Again we had a wonderful viewing area, looking down from the balcony.  Our Quarter, Verziere won the archery and were in the lead after the first event.

Drama At A Professional Standard....  The next three nights were the re-enactment of dramatic historical events in Montone dating back to the 1400's and all featuring the life and times of the famous Braccio Fortebraccio.   The plays took place within the village in each of the quarters.  The professional sets and outstanding acting and costumes made the nights memorable.  Areas of Montone were transformed beyond recognition, becoming a medieval stage for these very talented Italians.  Tickets for the particular night’s show went on sale each day at 4.00 pm, and there was a choice of five different times commencing at 9.00 pm.   Each play is voted on for their presentation, their cultural theme and their acting ability.

We're On The Winning Team....  On the second last night of the festival, there was the presentation of the Palio (The Prize) to the winning Quarter.  A big crowd gathered to be entertained by the fanfare of beating drums, trumpeters, and a fantastic display of flag throwers from a neighbouring city.   This presentation took place in the Piazza below us so we were treated to the display from our "box office: seats.  Our friends from Melbourne, Bevan & Jill who had arrived three hours earlier, were able to see this amazing event.  Our Quarter, Verzeria, won “The Palio” and the supporters went wild, running up and down the streets and chanting and waving flags.  It was like Italy had won the World Cup again but on a much smaller scale, but this didn't stop celebrations from continuing well into the night.

The Main Event....   The final day was the "Main Event", the parade of each quarter, commencing in the Piazza, then marching through the village returning to the Piazza.   This was a truly spectacular event and one which will be etched in our memory forever.  It commenced with the riders and horses galloping through the village to the piazza and the drummers and trumpeters announcing that the parade was to begin.  Each Quarter then walked in single file from their prospective quarters.  Men, women, children were dressed in their beautifully embroidered medieval dress,  and other people dressed in peasant costumes of the time.  The whole procession, numbering close to 200 people, then walked through the streets of the village with the crowned Lady of the Castle bringing up the rear all to the sounds of drums and trumpets.  It ended back in the Piazza with the flag throwers from Sansepolcro along with the drummers closing this magnificent event.

The following week, all the banners and flags were taken down and the village returned to normal with a much quieter time enjoyed by the locals. The two cafes replaced all their potted plants and tables and chairs and the men of the village resumed their games of cards.  It also allowed Bevan and Jill and us to catch up on sleep after a week of celebrations.

Back To Tuscany....   We insisted that our friends Jill and Bevan visit Siena, so after dropping them off, we drove onto San Gimignano, a beautifully preserved medieval city, but a nightmare for parking.  Anyone wishing to visit by car should arrive early to avoid the chaos especially in Italy’s holiday time.  There were originally 70 towers which measured the town’s prosperity and power, now there are under ten, but they still serve as a status symbol for the town.  The streets, churches, public buildings, and excellent shops make it very popular with tourists visiting Tuscany. 

A Return To Asissi.... We returned to Assisi with Bevan and Jill and while they visited the Saint Francis Basilica and walked the streets of Assisi, we climbed up to the Rocca (Fort) Maggiore.  The view from the top of the towers over Assisi and the surrounding area was amazing.  Much archaeological work has been done over the years to restore the fort, and now tourists are able to enter and explore the area.

Advice From The Locals....   Our Montonese friends, Sergio and Emanuela suggested that we take a day to visit Spello, Trevi, and Montefalco.  All three are built on the side of hills in the southern part of Umbria so each town had us tightening up our calf muscles as we hiked up to the top.  Spello received our vote as the best hill top town of the three and is well worth the visit.  It is much smaller and only 13 kms south east of Assisi, and like Assisi it is built of the pink and cream Umbrian stone.  As yet it hasn’t been discovered by too many tourists.  

A Night At The Opera....  Our last afternoon and night with Bevan and Jill was in Orvieto.  We went to see the opera “La Boheme” in Italian.  The tickets were sold ¾ hours before the commencement of the opera at 9.15 pm, so we had a nice dinner beforehand.  We then made our way to the theatre and were able to obtain a box on the third floor directly in front of the stage.  Teatro Mancinelli is a beautifully restored theatre and we made ourselves comfortable in our own box.  The opera commenced “on time” (amazing) and there were four acts with three intervals.  Unfortunately, our car park closed at midnight so we had to slip out a little earlier or we would have spent the night in the car park, but still we enjoyed the experience of seeing an opera while in Italy.  It was then a long drive back home, but well worth it.

Fun Nights In The Piazza.... We had some fun nights in the piazza with Bevan and Jill who were able to speak Italian to the people in the village and also to enjoy the company of our new Australian friends who we have met during our stay here.  All too soon their week came to an end and it was time for them to leave us and travel by train to Florence for six days before we again catch up with them in Venice.

San Marino, In Italy But Not Italy....  This was to be our last sightseeing adventure from Montone and it ended up being one of the highlights of our 10 week stay in Umbria.   San Marino, a Republic in its own right is only  61 sq kms with a population of  30,000 .  It is located in central Italy, north of Montone and 10 kms from the Adriatic Sea.  All the roads within San Marino are beautifully kept, and you can see the pride in this city. The walled centro storico (historial centre) is built on Mount Titano with the best views we have ever seen of the surrounding countryside and the Adriatic Sea.  To reach the "centro storico" you must drive up this winding road along with many other tourists wishing to see this very quaint walled village.  The car parking is well thought out with approximately 10  huge multi story parking lots to cater for the volume of tourists. 

You access the city via either elevators or a cable car from the car parks.   There are restaurants, and tax free shops selling leather goods, jewellery, watches, sunglasses, ceramics, cameras and a wide range of quality souvenirs.  What is unique about San Marino is that it is a tax free republic and as a result goods are very competitively priced compared to prices we had seen in parts of Italy.    Every hour there is a changing of the guard in the Palazzo Pubblico.  The guards are dressed spotlessly in their dark green uniforms.   The whole village is squeaky clean with beautiful gardens, magnificent buildings and churches, a well preserved rocca (fort) and the best views in all of Italy.   San Marino is an absolute must if you travelling in the northern part of Italy. 

Our Summer In Italy Comes To An End....  Our time in Montone has come to an end and on Saturday we leave for Venice for three days before driving back to Paris for our flight home.  We have absolutely loved our time here and we have experienced so much in the ten weeks we have lived in this small Italian village.   It will be difficult and sad to say goodbye to all the Italian friends we have made since arriving here in late June.   

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