Ireland
Friday May 14 to Monday May 24, 2010
We're In Irrrrelund ....
After departing the ferry at Rosslare Harbour, we took a quick trip in
to Wexford before coming back to Rosslare Harbour and our very
comfortable Old Courthouse B&B run by Mary No 1. The next
morning after an Irish Breakfast including black and white pudding, we headed south
following the coast and visiting the towns of Kilmore Quay, then across
the
estuary on the car ferry (Euro8.00 one way) at Arthurstown to the small harbour
town of Passage
East. Despite the blustery wind blowing, we managed to have a
morning tea break here before continuing on to Dunmore East on the
Waterford Estuary. Dunmore East is a pretty little village with
whitewashed cottages and thatched roofs. It was then on to Dungarvan for lunch before heading north to our two
night stay at Cashel. The weather was brilliant with sunny
skies and a coolish wind blowing and thankfully no rain.
Rocking In Cashel ....
Our 2 night stay in Cashel in County Tipperary was in a B&B called
Thornbrook House run
by Mary No 2 who had been running B&B's for 30 years. Her
hospitality, providing outstanding
facilities and her great Irish Breakfasts in a pleasant homely
environment was hard to beat, and we would thoroughly recommend this B
& B to anyone visiting Cashel. The ancient town of
Cashel and its surrounding countryside is dominated by the
spectacular Rock
of Cashel with history documented back to the 4th Century. It
is a collection of early Christian and medieval buildings including the
13th century Gothic Cathedral, 12th century round tower and the very early
Romanesque Cormac's Chapel perched on a dramatic outcrop of limestone
rock. A well presented audio video was shown
explaining the stirring events of Irish history that took place
here. We visited many of the small towns in the area surrounding
Cashel, including Holycross which has a beautiful old abbey where a
wedding was taking
place, and Golden and the hard to find ruins of Athassel Abbey built in
1176 and completed in 1204.
The Three Rings ....
From Cashel we drove to Killarney in the County of
Kerry. Killarney is a large town and a base used by
tourists to explore the region, particularly the Ring of Kerry and the
Dingle Peninsula. The town itself is large with brightly painted
Irish Pubs, gift shops and the usual array of colourful shops selling
Irish merchandise. Our B&B stop was Hazelbrook
Heights at Aghadoe, a suburb of Killarney, for three nights. This
was a pleasant self
catering B&B run by Hazel and her
husband Gerard, who is an Irish singer and plays in some of the
Killarney pubs as well as a full time job in the police force. On our
arrival we decided to drive the Ring of Kerry while the weather was
good. It was an amazing drive of approximately 150 kms for the
entire loop. We commenced the drive with a visit to the Gap
of Dunloe where pony and carts take visitors into the Gap for
an hour's ride.
We continued on visiting small towns along the
way
until we reached Portmagee, a small fishing village known for its
fishing, smuggling and ship wrecks. From this point
we drove up and through the Coomanaspig Pass where the landscape
becomes rugged and more spectacular. The drive through the
mountains provides outstanding views of the coastline and the massive
Kenmare River. We were surprised with the absence of tourist
buses and cars on the Ring of Kerry. We had been told that you
had to travel anti clockwise and that it would be a slow trip because
of the traffic, but it seemed at times that we were the only ones
on the road and it enabled us to stop and take photos and
admire the views. Apparently, the economy has been hit hard in
Ireland and
the tourists numbers are down from previous years. We passed through
the
towns of Waterville, overlooking Ballinskelligs Bay and onto Kenmare
which is a most picturesque town before heading back to
Killarney. The road from Kenmare to Killarney is really beautiful
with spectacular scenery. You pass through Molls Gap and onto
Ladies
View where we stopped for a drink and sat and admired the view towards
Lough Leane before returning to our B&B.
Singing By Night ....
It had been a long day but then we heard that Gerard, our B&B host,
was playing and singing Irish ballads at the local golf club so after a
meal we set off to have a great night. Gerard entertained for a
while then anyone that felt like singing could do so. Once the Irish
have a couple of drinks, they will get up and sing and everyone joins
in. By the end of the night, and once Gerard had finished singing, a
group of Irish golfers sang in tune and entertained for the rest
of the evening.
Quaint Dingle, The Second Ring .... You can be lucky or unlucky with the weather in
Ireland. We woke to a little rain but we were off to Dingle for
the day and to catch up with Liz's sister-in-law's sister, Jill who is
now living in Dingle and loving it.
Dingle
is a
really pretty town about 65 kms from Killarney located on the Dingle
Peninsula and is well worth a
visit. It is a fishing port with lots of colourful pubs, and
quaint shop fronts all along the streets. After
coffee and a catch up with Jilll, we toured out onto the peninsula to
Slea Head which looks out towards the Blaskett Islands. A most
interesting area of the Dingle Peninsula were the prehistoric Beehive
Huts which were built in 2000BC. These simple circular huts are
known as "clochans" and are scatted along the coastline
just west of Dingle.
Again
the views of
cliffs and sloping hills down into the ocean make it a great
photographers paradise. We were unable to cross the Connor
Pass as it was closed for road works due to the very bad winter
experienced this year. Apparently the pass was closed for 6 weeks
due to inclement weather.
The Third Ring .... We had been told to travel the Beare Peninsula if
possible. This peninsula is not as well known as the Ring of
Kerry but of the two peninsulas, we found this one to be more interesting. The
day was not the best to be travelling, as we again woke to some rain, but
we all agreed that it just changed the mood of the peninsula and we saw
a different aspect.
Again we passed through small
Irish villages with Eyeries being a favourite, as all
the small houses lining the narrow street were painted different
colours. The most fantastic part of this drive
was through the 1081ft Healy Pass which divides the County
of Kerry from the County of Cork. As it had been raining
overnight and during the day, the water was cascading down the very
steep mountain sides, forming torrents of water through the
valleys. We climbed and climbed up into the mountain range and
then descended down into the valleys. This was one of the
highlights of our trip. On the way home, it was time for a
nice cup of tea at Molly Gallivan's known for her illicit making of
"porteen" potato Irish Whiskey whilst raising a family back in those
early days.
Oh What A Coastline .... It was then time to leave Killarney and continue
heading north towards the Cliffs of Moher and O'Brien's Tower.
This was to be our next stop for two nights. We drove first up
through Abbeyfeale in County Limerick to the Mouth of the Shannon River
where we caught a ferry across to Killimer. The ferry runs every
30 mins and takes approximately 20 minutes to reach the other side of
the Shannon River and the port of Kilrush.
From
here it was a quick visit to the tourist information centre and then
onto the drive along the Cliffs of Kilkee in County Clare and again
fantastic views down into the Atlantic Ocean. This drive is not well known by
tourists and is very accessible so we were on our own and thoroughly enjoyed it.
A must stop was the Doonbeg Golf Club.
This is a magnificent links style golf course set in sand dunes right
on the Atlantic Ocean. And what a club house. Unfortunately
we did not play the course but it gave us a taste for
golf when we return to Australia.
The World Cup, Not Quite .... Our next stop was the
Atlantic Views B&B situated
1 mile from the Cliffs of Moher. We stayed for 2 nights and were
entertained by Mary No 3 and their 8 yr old ginger
headed son Daniel who just loved his soccer. We counted 8 soccer balls
in the front garden in various states of condition. He proudly
advised us that he doesn't like school and all he want's to do is play
soccer for MU (Manchester United). Rob and Ian took him on at a
game of soccer in the front garden but his skills where just a little
too good for us and he claimed victory.
Magnificent .... The Cliffs of Moher rise 214
metres from the Atlantic Ocean at their highest point and extend for
approximately 10 kms. We
walked the
pathways at the very well presented tourist centre where you can look
at the cliffs from a number of different viewing points as well as
climbing O'Briens Tower which stands on the highest point on the
cliffs.
We then took a ferry ride from Doolin right up close to the cliffs to
gain a different perspective of this amazing natural wonder. We
were able to see the variety of Irish birdlife nesting in the
cliffs. It was well worth paying the Euro 10 for the tour on a
perfect summer day with a temperature of 20 degrees and also be
entertained by one of the crew with some Irish jokes and his life story
thrown in. The Cliffs of Moher are a must see on any trip to
Ireland. The
weather was warming up for the next few days and the Irish were
thoroughly enjoying the sunshine.
Irish Music In An Irish Pub ....
Doolin was a 15 minute drive from our B&B.
Again it's a small Irish village with a number of Irish
pubs and a place to listen to Irish music being played most
evenings. O'Connor's Pub was our pub for dinner that night and we
enjoyed the Irish music along with many other tourists.
An Ancient Tomb ....
We had read about The Burren (meaning "rock") which is 300 square km
area just north of the Cliffs of Moher, so we had a day
trip to see this amazing area of cracked pavement slabs of
limestone, huge boulders and distorted strata which was caused by clean
topsoil being scraped by glaciers some 15,000 years ago. It is
also the home to over 1100 species of plants and was a well settled
region in
the Stone and Bronze Ages. The area has over 70 ancient tombs
with one of the most famous being the 4500 year old Poulnabrone Portal
Tomb
in the shape of a stone flying-machine ready for takeoff. There
are ancient ruins of fort walls in this most desolate area of
Ireland. Small villages are situated in the area for the local
people and the tourists. It was a most interesting area of
Ireland.
And On To Dublin .... It was time to head for Dublin
for two nights so we
said our goodbyes and headed towards Mullingar for the night and a
B&B which we found that afternoon. A detour on the way for
morning tea was to Thoor Ballylee - Yeats Tower. Thoor
Ballylee is a 16th-century castellated tower house near Gort. It
was owned by the poet W B Yeats from 1915 and was his matrimonial home
from 1917. The Yeats had extensive alterations made to the building,
which is now a museum containing Yeats memorabilia. Novara House
run by
Margaret and Ritchie was comfortable and just a short walk to the
town for dinner that night. It was then onto Dublin
arriving on Saturday morning and Andorra House which was about 5 km
from the centre of Dublin and on a bus line which stopped right outside
the front door. It was a busy time in Dublin as it was a weekend
and the weather was warm and sunny. All Irish were either
in the city soaking up the sun in the streets and the Irish pubs and
definitely having fun, or as we were told, they were having thousands
of BBQ's celebrating the warm weather.
First Stop, Guinness .... We decided to catch the Hop on-Hop off Dublin Bus which
takes you around all the major tourist attractions, as it was easier on
the legs and there was a running humourous commentary along the way.
The tickets are valid for 24 hours so well worth it to get around Dublin. The first
and most important stop was the Guinness Brewery established in 1759
by Arthur Guinness who signed a lease for a period 9,000 years in
1759 at just £45 per year with no inflation clause. Guinness has just celebrated its 250 years of Guinness
history. In a restored 1904 building we learnt all about this
world famous stout. Did you know that around the world today there
are over 10 million glasses of Guinness produced and drank every day. At
the end of the tour we sat down in the Gravity Bar on the 8th floor which has a 360
degree view over Dublin and enjoyed a pint of Guinness.
Dublin Sightseeing .... O'Connell Street is the widest and premier street in
Dublin and is lined in the middle with statues of Irish heroes and the
Spire of Dublin. It is also the hub of the bustling shopping
precinct. A short walk to Trinity College which is also a must see. Built in 1592 and
the home of Ireland's most treasured possessions, the 9th century "Book
of Kells". The "Book of Kells" dates back over 1000 years and
were written in Latin by scribes and artists who spread the message of
the life of Christ in gospel books. From this exhibition you
moved into the Trinity College Library called The Long Room which is 65
metres in length and houses around 200,000 of the Library's oldest
books on two levels.
Now Time For A Drink .... The Temple Bar area is the place for live Irish music until well into the early hours of the
morning. Tourists and the Irish flock to this area where there is
a pub or restaurant on every corner and every second building. We visited the
"The Temple Bar" itself named after Sir William Temple 1555 - 1627 who was
the founder of this pub and so the whole area became known as theTemple
Bar district. We enjoyed a drink here and returned again the
next day for lunch as we had enjoyed it so much. Grafton Street which is another shopping precinct has the
statue of Molly Malone which commemorates the heroine of the
traditional ballad, who sold cockles and mussels from her wheelbarrow
and is a favourite ballad sung in the pubs around Ireland.
Back On The Ferry To The UK .... Of course, in Dublin there is the Christ Church
Cathedral and St Patrick's Cathedral both of which were built in the
early 1100's and stand out amongst a number of churches in
Dublin. After two full days in Dublin and our last night at Jack
O'Reilly's Pub for dinner, we packed our bags ready for
our early morning departure.We headed to the Dublin waterfront and
caught the Stena Line ferry back to Holyhead. It was a 3 1/2 hr
trip across the Irish Sea with smooth sailing. It was a nice
relaxing time to sit back in the first class lounge before arriving in Holyhead in Wales.
And Now The Funny Bit .... Signs we saw in our travels:-
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