JACKMAN ESCAPADES – Documenting the travels of Rob and Liz Jackman

A Week In Helsinki, Finland

We Split, Split…. Our trip to Split Airport was interesting to say the least. Rather than being on a freeway all the way it seemed like we were on back roads in the outback. If that wasn’t amusing enough, when we arrived at the airport, we left the bus and were escorted into what could best be described as a tin shed. We lined up and discovered it was the check-in counter for people off the airport bus. It turned out to be very efficient, as we jumped the huge crowds at the check-in desks inside the terminal. Efficiently went through security and immigration and into the waiting area which was packed. Not a seat in sight and no business class lounge to use. The joys of travelling.

*A 180 degree view from our apartment in downtown Helsinki*

We arrived in Helsinki on time, caught the airport train to the city and walked a short distance to our apartment. A modern, well equipped apartment overlooking a large park with views over the Finlandia Entertainment Centre. After settling in, we walked to the local supermarket. Always an adventure in a foreign country. Not much English so fun finding the basics. Thank goodness for Google translate. Purchased some nice eye fillet steak at a very reasonable price and had a lovely home cooked dinner. A nice change after restaurants for the last two weeks.
The Big Day…. Next morning was the ‘Big Day’, Liz’s birthday. Breakfast in bed then on with the walking shoes. First to the Museum of Contemporary Art, some very thought-provoking art, then to the National Museum of Finland with lots of history to absorb, and very well done.

We then walked to the Temppeliaukio ‘Rock’ Church. This church is built into solid rock with a magnificent roof that filters in the light. Most unusual and crowded with tourists off the cruise boats. We then jumped on a tram and went down to Market Square where there are food and gift stalls laid on. Walked around for a while, checked out the sightseeing cruise boats and then headed back to our apartment for a rest before the big celebration.

*The Temppeliaukio ‘Rock’ Church. Built into solid rock with a magnificent domed roof and filtered light*

A Memorable Event…. The delightful receptionist at our apartment made a booking at a classy restaurant called Restaurant Kappeli. This restaurant was established in 1867 and is housed in a beautiful old building on ‘The Esplanadi’, a tree lined esplanade in downtown Helsinki. We took a chauffeur driven stretched limousine to the restaurant! Our table for two was in a unique semi-circular atrium away from the rest of the diners. Our three course
meal with matching wines for each course was sensational and a great way to celebrate the big day.

*Restaurant Kappeli in downtown Helsinki*

A Short Cruise…. Next day we took a sightseeing cruise around the Helsinki Archipelago. This is a magnificent area for holiday homes on the numerous islands, for pleasure boating, swimming and relaxing. The only problem is the short season. All boats have to be taken out of the water in winter as the ice can be up to a meter thick and would crush the hulls of pleasure boats. We then had lunch in the ‘Old Market Hall’, a unique food market with small cafes, plenty of food shops and salmon to die for. After lunch onto a Panorama Bus to see some of the outskirts of Helsinki and to visit the Arabia Design Centre.

*Holiday Home on an island in the archipelago*

Continuous Daylight…. What we are struggling to get used to is the continual daylight. Whilst the sun is setting at 11:00 PM and rising again before 4:00 AM it never gets dark. Between 11:00 PM and 4:00 AM it is like dusk in Melbourne. People are still out in the park opposite our apartment having picnics at midnight. Winter is different, only 6 hours of daylight. Light at about 9:15 AM, dark at 3:15 PM. An interesting sideline. In Croatia there are
ATM cash machines on every corner. In Helsinki we could only find 6 in the entire city and none in the tourist areas. Finland is almost a cashless society.

A Ferry To The Fortress…. An early start with the tram to Market Square and a ferry to the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress. A video presentation and the museum gave a good understanding as to why the fort was built. We then went on a guided tour of the fort giving a great insight into the history. Back on the ferry and lunch at the Old Market Hall. Delicious smoked salmon on rye bread. Then onto the hop-on hop-off bus for a tour around Helsinki.
This really is a beautiful city with some stunning architecture along with usual crappy buildings all cities have. A stop at Senate Square where we disembarked to walk up to the Helsinki Cathedral and then descended
into the Crypt where Liz became an “angel” for a minute! What a magical place.

Downtown Helsinki…. Downtown Helsinki for our third day, first to the Amos Rex Private Art Museum, a walk around the city and then to the Ateneum, The Finnish National Gallery. This is a beautiful city with some sensational buildings. It is hard to believe that Helsinki only has a population of 650 thousand people and Finland a population of 5.5 million. On the way back to our apartment we called into the modern Helsinki Central Library and were blown away. This place is amazing. Not just a library, but a meeting place and learning centre for everyone. Hundreds of people in the library, children everywhere and two cafes. Over three floors, the top floor being
the library, the second floor a learning centre with computers, 3D printers, robot labs and even sewing machines and ironing board. All for everyone to use.

A Day in Tallinn, Estonia…. Up at 5:00 AM this morning for our day trip to Tallinn, Estonia to visit the ‘Old Town’. Ferry departed at 7:30 AM and arrived in Tallinn at 9:30 AM. A 15 minute walk and you are in the ‘Old Town’. We wandered the streets searching out the main sights, the Gothic Town Hall, Aleksander Nevsky Cathedral, Toompea Castle and other notable sights. A late lunch in the ‘Old Town’ then we wandered back to the ferry via the Nautica
Shopping Centre located close to the terminal. On the way back on the ferry we watched people going crazy buying clothes, food items and especially alcohol to take back to Finland. Duty free allowances are very high
in the EU so people had trolleys stacked with beer, wine and spirits.

*Tallinn Gothic Town Hall in centre of the ‘Old Town’*

A Trip Out of Town…. A slow start next morning due to the big day yesterday. We took a local bus to Porvoo about 50 km from Helsinki. What makes this town unique is the beautiful old wooden houses and shops painted in soft pastel colours. An excellent tourist walking map is supplied so we walked the streets and looked at the highlighted sights of the ‘Old Town’. The cobbled streets are a feature but certainly not good for wheelchairs, bikes or scooters.

A Moment of Silence…. Back on the bus to Helsinki and our last tourist stop was the Kamppi Chapel or as it is known ‘The Chapel of Silence’. A non-denominational church built of timber and acoustically designed. You walk into this building and it is totally silent from the hustle and bustle of Helsinki. You can sit and contemplate life without interruption. At the entrance door are counsellors and a priest and if you are having any issues, they will
confidentially talk with you and help if they can. Just a great way to finish our 9 week trip.

*Kamppi Chapel – The Chapel of Silence in downtown Helsinki*

Split, Croatia

Our Tour in Split…. We arrived in Split, Croatia at the end of our cruise to a heat wave which was spreading through Europe. The tour around the city whilst informative was in oppressive conditions as there was little breeze flowing through the narrow streets. The guided tour focussed on the Diocletian Palace section of the city and the guide provided the history back to Roman times.

Traditional Croatian singing in the Vestibul

Roman Columns around Cathedral St Duje

Following the tour, we left the group and wandered the ‘Old Town’ to find our apartment which turned out to be just around the corner. Part of our apartment is connected to the old walls of the Diocletian Palace very close to the most famous historical, cultural attractions and landmarks. We then met up with our cruise friends for a farewell drink followed by dinner at a restaurant in the ‘Old Town’. What is notable is that drinks and food in Split are cheaper than Dubrovnik. The Split locals are also more friendly and helpful.

Basement of Diocletian Palace. Classy gift shops and art dealers
Ruins in the ‘Old Town’ adds to the character of Split

The Wrong Accommodation…. After breakfast next morning, we said farewell to our cruise friends and took a golf cart to our Split apartment to drop off the bags. The only problem was the driver took us to the wrong place. The receptionist at the Diocletian Wine Hotel then helped us transfer to our apartment about 3 minutes away and provided a guided tour along the way. He was so concerned and helpful by taking both our suitcases that a tip was appropriate even though he didn’t agree.

Our apartment with wine rack. Liz is being very disciplined

We Select Our Local Bar…. Our studio apartment is in the centre of the ‘Old Town’, a great location. We are surrounded by bars, restaurants and a night club. We immediately selected our local bar just around the corner and went for a drink. A beer is Kuna 17 (A$4.00), a bargain. In Dubrovnik, our most expensive beer was Kuna 48 (A$11.50) and yes, the same size 330 ml bottle. Restaurant prices also seem cheaper than Dubrovnik.

Bugatti Veyron. US$1.7 million

Supercars Everywhere…. The Onelife Car Rally was in town when we arrived and as we couldn’t get into our apartment till 1:00 PM we watched the cars depart Split heading for Montenegro. The rally was from Poland to Greece and there were millions of dollars of supercars on display with the most expensive being a Bugatti Veyron, a cool US$1.7 million, but plenty of Ferrari’s, Lamborghini’s, McLarens, Porsches, Audi’s, Bentley’s, BMW’s and Mercedes. For some reason the drivers love revving their engines and creating unbelievable noise on the Riva Esplanade. After checking into our apartment, we were exhausted and spent the rest of the afternoon cooling down and relaxing before heading out for dinner at a lovely Italian restaurant.

McClaren P1. Only US$1.2 million

Exploring the Town…. Next morning after a sleep-in we ventured out to wander the town of Split. First to the outdoor markets, then into the Diocletian Palace, the Cathedral of St Duje, the Crypt, the impressive Vestibul with views over Split outside the walls and views within parts of the old wall where locals still live. This is a beautiful city and a contrast to Dubrovnik.

The locals market. Just out of the ‘Old Town’

Dubrovnik is pristine in condition and almost too perfect, but beautiful in its own right. Split is a more historical city, but to us seems to be more inviting with its ruins dating back to 4th century as well as its restored sections. To us it has character, with the history of this old town at every turn you take.

Split Harbour from the ‘Old Town’ wall

The Heat Wave Continues…. That night, after it had cooled down, we wandered the streets of Split. At every turn you were surprised by the uniqueness of this city. Newly restored sections alongside Roman ruins, narrow streets running in all directions, restaurants everywhere, classy shops and boutiques. Everyone in shops and restaurants is friendly and happy whereas in Dubrovnik they seemed a little jaded from tourists.

Display in one of the art shops

We selected an outdoor restaurant, had a nice dinner and on the way back came to the Peristil Square in the middle of the Dioclecian Palace where live entertainment was taking place. People dancing and singing and the local restaurant serving drinks, all at 11:00 PM at night.

Sections of the ‘Old Town’. Unrestored but full of character

Restaurants in the Diocletian Palace precinct
Typical restaurant in narrow streets

Our Final Day…. A sleep-in this morning after another late night. Out to walk more of the ‘Old Town’ but oh boy, is it hot, 35oC at 11:00 AM. We walked the Riva Esplanade that overlooks Split Harbour then walked to the fish market.

Riva Esplanade overlooking Split Harbour

Completely different to the Tokyo Fish Market. This market seems to have the local fisherman just selling the fish they caught the day before.
Some stalls only had a few small fish whilst others had a reasonable stock of fish for sale. From there into a small local craft market and then into the new section of Split with the regular range of Main Street stores like Zara.

Split fish market, very small

Croatia Cruise – Dubrovnik to Split

Our last few hours in Dubrovnik were spent using our Dubrovnik 24hr Card visiting the Mamad Art Gallery, and the Natural History Museum. We collected our cases from the apartment and walked to the pickup point for our Croatia Cruise. Checked into our cabin on the MS Markan. A brand new, Deluxe cruise boat launched in September 2018. We then joined our cruise group for a tour of the city with a tour guide who was very informative about the history of this beautiful city. Most interesting.

Mamad Art Gallery

Dubrovnik ‘Old Town Wall’ from the water

Luxury Afloat…. It was then back to the boat for the welcome dinner, an opportunity to meet the Captain, crew and other passengers followed by a welcome dinner. Next morning, we departed and cruised past Dubrovnik ‘Old Town’ which gave a different perspective of this beautiful city.

MS Markan – Dalmatia Deluxe Cruise. Launched September 2018

After 3 hours of cruising we stopped in a small bay at Otok Jakljan for a swim for an hour. Crystal clear water and not cold.

Swimming off the back of the cruise boat

We then headed to Slano to pick up a bus that took us to Ston for a short city tour, learn about sea salt production and to walk the 14th century old city wall. The wall is nearly 6 km long and was built to protect the salt production from invaders because back in medieval times salt was considered white gold. Our short walk of the wall was only 800 meters but also a steep climb with 800 steps. All this in 34oC temperatures. What a contrast to England.

Ston City Wall

Oyster, Mussel and Wine Tasting…. Back on the bus to Mali Ston where we boarded a boat that took us to a remote peninsula for Oysters, Mussels, Wine and Grappa tasting. Fresh oysters 15 minutes out of the Adriatic Sea, mussels cooked in wine and garlic and very nice local wine. After an hour everyone was very happy but once back on the bus many soon fell asleep. I wonder why.

Oyster, Mussel and Wine tasting

That night was the Captains Dinner with a Croatian duo providing the music. A formal event by Croatian standards; long pants, no flip flops and the men were asked to shave. This is as formal as it gets on this cruise.

Entertainment at the Captain’s Dinner

How Embarrassing…. Next morning, we were on the way at 8:00 AM, having breakfast, when all of a sudden, the boat turns around and goes back to Slano. A passenger was off walking and missed the boat. A very sheepish American guest boarded the boat on our return to port. 2 ½ hours of cruising on water that looks like a mirror before a stop for a swim in the warm and inviting Adriatic Sea. Lunch on board whilst heading towards our next destination, Mljet National Park.

Swimming in the Adriatic Sea

More Exercise…. A nice lunch was enjoyed before walking 2 km to a large inland lake where we boarded a small boat that took us to a Benedictine Monastery on a tiny island, St Mary’s Island, in the middle of the lake. It was a 30 minute stop here then back to the mainland to rent bikes with friends from the boat and proceeded to ride around the lake, a distance of 12 km. Back to our starting point, into the bathers for a swim in the lake with a very rocky bottom. That is when we realised, we needed the aqua shoes we purchased in the UK. An exhausting uphill walk took us back to the boat.

Bike riding around the lake at Mljet National Park

A Very Nice Dinner…. That night out for dinner at one of the local restaurants serving fresh seafood, with a group of friends from Perth and Zimbabwe. A fun night but I think we were all ready for bed when we had finished the meal with wine and beer to wash it all down.

Dinner with Chris, Carole, Karen, Nicola, Dino, Rob & Liz

A Refreshing Ale and the local wine Grk…. On Saturday, a later departure than usual at 9:00 AM to the small township of Lombarda where we had the opportunity to walk the town then spend a pleasant hour having a drink in a beach bar with a group from the cruise boat.

Beach Bar in Lombarda

And On To Korcula…. Back on board for lunch whilst cruising to our next overnight stop of Korcula. A walking tour with a local guide was interesting and fun as she had a wicked sense of humour.

Walking into the ‘Old Town’ of Korcula – Our favourite small village

Following the tour, we wandered the town and found a bar in the tower which led to climbing many steps to see a very steep ladder in front of us leading to the very top. We all climbed the ladder through a small manhole of rock to discover they don’t sell beer. We called it “a pub with no beer”!! How disappointing, so down the ladder again before settling at a nice bar on the esplanade for drinks and pizza with the group from the ship. We are overdue for an AFD but this will have to wait till Helsinki.

Dinner in Korcula

Now We are Cruising…. Next morning, we departed at 8:00 AM whilst having breakfast for a 5 hour cruise to our next destination, the island of Vis. It was nice to have some free time whilst cruising as the last 4 days had been hectic and energetic. You need to be fit if you wish to participate in all the activities. The 5 hour trip was mostly in open ocean with a reasonable breeze so the ship was heading directly into the swell which was a problem for some passengers. When we were having lunch our guide advised the waves were 1.5 meters and they can get up to 5 meters as the wind increases. Wow!

1.5 meter swell. Imagine the 5 meter swell

A Swim and Wine Tasting…. We arrived in the village of Vis and walked to the local pebbly beach for a swim. Thank goodness for the aqua shoes which we remembered to take with us. Very relaxing. We returned to the boat and then went on a wine tasting excursion. An uphill walk of about 1.5 km to a local winery. Enjoyed three wines with the shiraz style wine winning hands down

Swimming in crystal clear water in Vis

And Yes, Another Dinner…. Out for dinner that night, a group of 9 of us, that have bonded well. The dinner was in a local restaurant recommended by a friend of Carole’s. VIP treatment and a free entrée. If the trip was any longer than 8 days, I think we would all have ended up as alcoholics. We are committed to at least two AFD’s in Split, or maybe Helsinki or maybe when we get home.

Another great dinner – Liz, Rob, Nicola, Karen, Dino, Peter, Ellen, Carole and Chris

The Famous Blue Cave…. After an overnight stop in Vis we departed early for the island of Bisevo and its famous Blue Cave. Boats and people everywhere as this tourist attraction is really popular. It was a 2 hour wait, before we departed on a small boat with 12 people on board to the Blue Cave. The cave was spectacular as once you entered the cave the sun reflected off the white sand on the cave floor and lit up the dark cave with a rich blue colour. After 5 minutes in the cave we were dropped off at our cruise boat.

The famous Blue Cave. A natural wonder

Hvar, The Party Island…. We then headed to Hvar, the party island, and arrived mid afternoon and were escorted on a guided tour of this beautiful town. We then wandered the town taking in the abundance of clothes and gift shops before settling into a bar in a shady spot for a nice drink before heading to a restaurant for dinner. A great night was had by 11 of us from Australia, New Zealand and Zinbabwe. We were anchored right on the esplanade with restaurants and night clubs galore, so we watched the passing crowd from our balcony before heading to bed after an exhausting day.

Hvar from the Fort overlooking the town

We Head for Split, Our Final Destination…. For our final day on the boat we departed Hvar to the island of Brac for a swim from the famous beach, Zlatni Rat, near the town of Bol. A stony beach but crystal clear water greeted us. Thank goodness for our aqua shoes again, well worth the money.

Zlatni Rat Beach

After an hour swimming, back on the boat for lunch and off to Split for our final night on the boat. A quick walk around Split, to a bar for a quick drink and then out for our final dinner with our friends, Carole & Chris from Perth and Karen, Dino and Nicola from Zimbabwe. A fabulous but exhausting 8 days on the brand new cruise boat, MS Markan.

Approaching Split Harbour – Our final destination
Fireworks for our last night on the cruise boat