On Monday 27 June we were picked up and taken down to board the Kimberley Quest II which was to be our home for the next eight days and what an eight day adventure we had. We met Jenny and Bob Gault on the beach and were taken by tender boat out to the boat where we settled into our cabins and started cruising up towards Cape Leveque and into the Buchaneer Archipelago. We cruised all night and woke the next morning to see Cape Leveque. The scenery around us was superb and it was difficult to lay back and relax as you were likely to miss some of the spectacular scenery. The landscape and island are rugged with towering cliffs, escarpments and a sensational kaleidoscope of colours.

A hearty breakfast followed our first night at sea and time to explore the boat. What was amazing was the size of the vessel for so few people. There was an air conditioned lounge/dining area capable of seating 20 people, an outdoor rear deck capable of seating 20 people, a rear upper deck and forward deck with lounges and a spa. With only 12 people on board you had plenty of space to relax without feeling you were encroaching on other people. All the cabins are air conditioned and have en-suites so you can have your privacy as well if that is what you want.

Late morning on the first day was time to go exploring in the tender boats and it was off we went to Crocodile Creek where the miners from Cockatoo Island and yachts sailing in the area would anchor and swim. At the top of the stainless steel ladder which we climbed, is a beach shelter erected many years ago by the miners and it seems that anyone who visits Crocodile Creek leaves a little bit of memorabilia which could range from signed underwear to signed and dated driftwood. This was all hanging from the shelter. A short walk led us up to a coolish freshwater waterhole which we all gingerly entered. Once in, it was beautiful.

Next we ventured to the magnificent Horizontal Waterfalls (left) where geology and tides have created a dramatic cascade of the sea. Up to 12 metre tides create a waterfall. As the tidal flow passes through the narrow gap, the escarpment becomes a dam wall over which water cascades, first one way then the other on each turning tide. To experience this phenomenon, we went in the tender boats which are driven by 85 horsepower Yamaha two strokes right up and through the waterfall. Everyone enjoyed the thrill so much that we all voted to repeat it. In order get through the raging current these boats are driven flat out into the narrow gap. Exciting yes and getting wet was unavoidable but when it is 30^oC who cares.

At anchor for the night in a safe harbour just near the horizontal falls and time for happy hour followed by a gourmet dinner prepared by the chef, Rich, and what a chef. There was variety and flair in every meal and they just kept getting better as each day went on. Prawns, scallops, calamari, fish, beef and lamb, not only for evening meals but for lunch as well. What a culinary feast.

Our next experience was to visit Montgomery Reef (right). Aboriginal name is Galangi. We all rose early as many of the excursions relied on the tides being correct, and this particular morning low tide was at 8.00am. This was an amazing site. As the tide falls, a waterfall effect is created over the reef platform which eventually becomes exposed to create a magical lagoon, teeming with sea life and many species of birds and turtles. Montgomery Reef is 300 sq kms and once the tide has fallen, the reef can be as much as 4 metres above sea level. It was the weirdest experience to be in the middle of the ocean and see the water cascading down cliffs and forming waterfalls and raging currents.

Sale River (left) was a next port of call. This is one of the big rivers in the Kimberley and here we disembarked and walked into an ancient patch of rainforest for a swim in freshwater, and safe from any crocodiles lurking in the river. It was then back to the Kimberley Quest II to freshen up before heading to Sampson’s Inlet and the island for nibbles and drinks and to watch the glorious sunset, before returning to the boat for dinner.

Most mornings on the boat we were up early and Thursday 30 June was no exception even thought it was Liz’s birthday, so no sleep in today. All twelve of us were heading off in the tender boats at 6.00am to view some Wandjina Aboriginal art (right) at Raft Point (Pumburi). This was a really interesting talk given by our captain Ben who was 26 years of age, and skippering only his second cruise. The aboriginals would float down on their rafts to Montgomery Reef and collect their food supplies of turtles, dugongs and shell fish. Their visits to the reef would rely on the right tide times. In the afternoon we saw the Petrified Warriors at Langii Point. Eroded over thousands of years these well worn rocks stand out and resemble groups of warriors. Aboriginal stories say that they were from the Wandjina tribe and killed in battle.

It was then time to fish for our dinner so we were all given fishing lines and lures and fished for a few hours. Some had luck and caught Queen Fish, Trevally and Mackeral, but the majority of us caught Rock Cod which were thrown back and nobody caught the elusive Barramundi. That night the crew gathered and presented Liz with two birthday cakes. Rich, the chef had made them during the day and they were beautifully decorated with cream, chocolate and strawberries. We all enjoyed a piece to celebrate. A night to remember for Liz.

Another early morning at 6.00 am saw most of us go fishing to catch that elusive Barramundi, but once again no luck except for a few Fingermarks, Mackeral and a nice eating Mangrove Jack. We did see the whales though. This was a wonderful site as they were frolicking and coming right out of the water, but as soon as we got too close, they would disappear, only to appear a bit further on. We now had enough fish for a dinner which Rich prepared beautifully.

We cruised into Camden Sound. It was at Brecknack Harbour that a sheep farming settlement was set up in 1860’s, and it was one of the first of several endeavours by Europeans to settle in the Kimberley, but all fell victim to extreme climate, isolation and aboriginal resistance. Some of the graves are still standing on Sheep Island, including Mrs Pascoe who died at the age of 30 years and left a newborn baby that died not long after. We cruised in Kuri Bay and saw all the pearl farms operating. It was here that the first pearl farm was set up in 1956. One of the crew worked on a pearl farm and informed us it was very hard work for very little pay.

St George Basin, Prince Regent River and the well known King Cascades filled in our Saturday. With only three days left of our trip, this would have to be one of the highlights of the trip. We sailed into St George Basin and up the Prince Regent River which runs almost straight for most of its length. The scenery is spectacular, and the deep chasm of the Prince Regent River has made part of the reserve inaccessible and not properly explored. We were told to be ready for a photo shoot of King Cascades and sure enough just around one of the only bends in the river, the Cascades appear. The water cascades 50 metres down over the red rock and the lush vegetation of various ferns. It is really a beautiful site. Unfortunately back in 1986 Ginger Meadows an American tourist died here. She supposedly stood on the ledge of the falls and as the tide was rising, she decided to swim back to the boat and was taken by a crocodile.

We climbed to the top of the falls. This was listed as a medium climb walk. Definitely a climb with a few tricky spots but we all made it to the top to find that we had to swim across the waterhole to reach the other side. The water was again coolish but it was well worth seeing the smaller pools of water and little waterfalls on the other side. We had a couple of hours here before making the descent, and return to the boat and more fishing in the afternoon with similar results.

Sunday was a very full day with fishing at 5.30 am and a walk at 8.00 am to Camp Creek Waterfalls (right). This walk was much flatter and easier over rocks, and ponds of small lilies to the falls. The water was flowing over the falls into a big waterhole where we all again swam and cooled down. Some of us swam right underneath the falls while Ben our intrepid captain and guide jumped from the top.

Careening Bay was our last visit for the day, and it was here that Phillip Parker-King an early explorer visited. He repaired his boat here and carved HMC Mermaid 1820 in one of the oldest Boab Trees (left) we have ever seen. It stands approximately 12.2 metres tall.

It was our last night on board the Kimberley Quest II so to celebrate our trip we all dressed up a little bit more than usual and had dinner and talked about the trip and the “mythical barramundi”. As the evening wore on, a salt water crocodile sidled up to the boat. He was checking us all out and enjoying the warm water that was being pumped out from the boat. We made sure we kept well away from the back of the boat and the landing platform.

Our last morning was in the Hunter River. We explored the area in the morning by tender boat and finally saw the crocodiles lying on the bank soaking up the sun. The bird life is really interesting and Ben was able to point out many different species including, an osprey’s nest perched right on top of a huge boulder, the peregrine falcon, the great egret, the white faced heron, the brahiming kite and the sandstone shrike thrush. We returned to the boat and at noon Rob and Liz boarded the helicopter which landed on the top of the boat and were airlifted back to the Mitchell Plateau airfield (left) for our return trip by aeroplane to Broome with Jenny and Bob Gault.

It was the most fabulous week of adventure and relaxation and we would recommend it to anyone. The skipper, crew, and chef were most professional and knew their job well. The chef Rich was outstanding and for anybody thinking of doing the cruise, we would definitely recommend it. There was never a dull moment and what an opportunityto see part of Australia that is so remote and beautiful.

We arrived back in Broome and spent the week with Liz’s sister Jan and her husband Ian who have caravanned up from Denmark and Jenny and Bob who stayed at the Cable Beach Resort relaxing after their adventure cruise. It was a week of catching up, fishing, swimming eating and drinking and all those relaxing things you do on a permanent holiday.

Next week, Monday 11 July Rob, Liz, Jan and Ian go off camping to Middle Lagoon, Chile Creek and Cape Leveque.

The highlight of this section of our trip. This is an easy question to answer. From the moment we stepped onto the boat until we landed back at Broome 8 days later. This was undoubtedly one of the best experiences we have ever had, particularly as we enjoy adventure mixed with luxury accommodation and gourmet meals.

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