East Kimberley Region
Oh No!! More Water

The Best Laid Plans.... Our original plan was to spend a couple of weeks in the East Kimberley region travelling west along the Gibb River Road to the three ways junction and then up to Kalumbaru and the Mitchell Plateau via the Kalumbaru Rd. Unfortunately due to the 'Big Wet' this year, much of the Gibb River Road is closed for another couple of weeks and the Kalumbaru Rd is closed for another 6 to 8 weeks. From the east end, the Gibb River Road was closed at the Pentecost River which required us to change our plans.

Instead we arranged with our new found Ballarat friends, Gary & Judy, to travel to Wyndham, then to Diggers Rest Camp and on to El Questro over a four day period. Even this turned out to be a bit of an adventure with water closing roads and Diggers Rest Camp being somewhat of a surprise in more ways than one.

We set out to visit Wyndham which was established in 1886. It is the most northern town and port in Western Australia on the tidal waters of the Cambridge Gulf. The port services a huge cattle industry, the Ord River Irrigation Project and mining companies. From the Five Rivers Lookout there is a good view of the five rivers - Pentecost, King, Durack, Forrest and Ord which all flow into the sea at Cambridge Gulf. We visited the Crocodile Farm where there are a large number of big salt water crocodiles in captivity. You can also view hatchings to the large saltwater monsters. Komodo dragons and alligators are on display.

Diggers Rest Camp..... From Wyndam we travelled across the King River and followed the river. Here you could see a few large crocodiles either in the river or on the bank to Diggers Rest Camp. The road in was a narrow 4 WD track still with plenty of water crossing it and many muddy patches. We arrived at Diggers Rest Camp around 4.30 pm just before sunset and were met by a farm hand who showed us the way to the homestead and camp ground which was the backyard of the property. We were introduced to four men and a young woman from the USA, who were very interested to see our camping set up's and we were very interested to meet them.

The Station is relatively small compared to others and it is not only used as a cattle station but also runs Kimberley Pursuits - an adventurous horse trek which takes lovers of the bush and horses on 7 day treks into the Kimberley. We were made most welcome and spent a very funny night wondering what we had come across.

Due to the poor track condition and the King River this property can be isolated from Wyndham and Kununurra for up to 4 months depending on how heavy the rains are in the wet season. This year they actually ran out of many basic food supplies and had to have helicopter drops of food to keep them going. Ask yourself this. How many weeks could I plan ahead before I had to go to any shops? Maybe 2 weeks, certainly not 4 months.

The next morning around 6.00 am two of the farm hands brought a very lame horse into the horse stables. They thought the poor horse had been attacked by a crocodile and its foreleg shoulder had been ripped away from its body with a huge gap exposing all the bones and joints and big enough to put a very large hand into. As the vet was down at Halls Creek and unavailable to visit, information was obtained as to what to do. They proceeded to hose out the wound, spray it with antiseptic, give a penicillin needle and administer pain killers. All seemed hopeful that the horse would survive.

We left after an eventful morning and continued on to El Questro where we were to spend two nights camping. Our original plan was to take what was called the middle road to El Questro but due to much of the area being mud flats we were advised that it would be impassable and should take the road back to Wyndam and then on to El Questro.

El Questro Station..... El Questro Station is on the eastern perimeter of the Kimberley and runs for approximately 80 kilometres into the heart of the region. It is a 1 million acre property and was developed in 1991 as a tourist facility. The homestead accommodation at El Questro is quite expensive. For $1500 per couple per night and a minimum booking of two nights you can stay and be fully waited on - full bar service, all meals and all guided tours. Unfortunately the "plebs" in the camping ground could not go and "have a rubber neck" of the lodge. The camp ground was fairly basic but OK for our stay of two nights.

We hired a boat for 4 hours and cruised up the Chamberlain Gorge. The gorge is 3 km long before you reach some rapids and the scenery is spectacular. We were even lucky enough to see a baby fresh water crocodile sitting on a branch in the water taking in the morning sun. Rob and Gary threw in a line to hook another barra but had no luck but it was a very pleasant way to spend a morning. We also walked into El Questro Gorge - an easy walk over rocks and small river crossings. At the end of the walk there was a small but beautiful swimming hole. Zebedee Springs was another attractive spot for laying in small thermal pools at the end of a short walk which took you through lush, tropical greenery.

On our way out, we visited Emma Gorge. This would have to be our favourite gorge so far. It is a 1.6 km walk which takes about 45 minutes. There are numerous pools to take a dip in on the way. At the top there is a huge waterhole with a droplet waterfall enclosed on three sides by 150 ft sheer cliffs. The waterfall was really spilling over and in some spots in the pool, you would come across some warm spots. Just a delightful spot.

Before we returned to Kununurra, Gary and Rob wanted to see the Pentecost River which was closed due to the water flowing down the river. This has stopped the Gibb River Road from being opened from this end and also because the road is cut up along the way. On seeing a works vehicle cross the river, the boys decided to attempt it themselves and did it across and back successfully. They did admit that there was a bit of water current pushing the car sideways but it did not cause any problems. Another 4 WD which was observing, also made the crossing there and back successfully. It was then back to Kununurra for a clean up and to say goodbye to Gary and Judy who were travelling onto the Bungle Bungle, Broome and the Gibb River Road entering via Derby. We will be following but were spending some time enjoying Kununurra.

The highlight of this section:

Has to be Emma Gorge at El Questro. This is just a beautiful spot that you could easily spend a day at taking in the fantastic scenery and spending time swimming in the number of great water holes.

Until our next update.

Regards, Rob & Liz

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